Like a long lost world where nature still reigns unhindered, the Colombian Pacific is a place of
simpler times and pleasures set against a most inspiring backdrop of wild jungle crashing unyieldingly into the sea. One of Colombia’s best kept secrets, the Pacific is a place of joyful cultural expression and culinary delights where unwinding is not only an option, it’s the only option.
With waterfalls crashing onto wide empty beaches, thermal pools hidden deep in the jungle and an extraordinary biodiversity, this is nature at its finest, a place so special that magnificent humpback whales journey thousands of kilometers to rear their young in its warm protected waters and scores of sea turtles return time and time again to lay their eggs on its solitary dark sands.
A place where vibrant AfroColombian communities exist harmoniously side by side with timeless indigenous settlements; an intriguing cultural mix where daily life is accompanied by the sweet rhythms of forest emanating from the marimba de chonta.
Hiking the empty sands or traveling by canoe through the region’s twisted mangroves feels like a journey through the final frontier yet this untouched paradise is only a short flight from two of Colombia’s biggest cities.
The capital of Pacific culture and the biggest city in the region isn’t actually on the Pacific at all, but a hundred kilometers inland in Valle de Cauca, one of four departments along with Nariño, Cauca and Chocó that make up the region.
Yet while Cali might be geographically removed, it wears its Pacific identity with pride. Being connected to the main Pacific port of Buenaventura by road - one of only two roads into the entire western seaboard - and with generations of migrants from the region settling in the city, Cali is the gateway to the Pacific and the finest showcase of its rich culture.
The most ethnically diverse of Colombia’s major cities, Cali is an energetic and outgoing place where music, dance and the arts are highly valued by it’s fun loving inhabitants.
And Cali’s maximum artistic expression is salsa. More than just music, salsa is a way of life here. From the big stages of the World Salsa Festival and the Cali Fair to the intimate salsa bars and neighborhood block parties, salsa is the sound that unites this diverse metropolis
across generations and social divides.
But visitors who aren’t expert dancers need not be concerned, because Cali is probably the best place in the world to learn to some steps and there is plenty of opportunity to practice.
And while salsa may get Caleños out of bed in the morning, the traditional music of the Pacific is also hugely important here. Heavily influenced by ancestral African singing and rhythms, the music of the Pacific hits the big time during the Petronio Alvarez Festival when performers from throughout the region descend on Cali to perform for the masses.
To the north of Cali, near the religious hub of Buga, Lago Calima offers both quiet getaways in nature and thrilling adventure sports.
Cali is also a perfect place to sample the delicious wholesome cuisine of the region, rated by many as the best in the country. Heavily influenced by the wild natural surrounds it’s a delectable mix of fresh seafood and the bounty of the land, particularly coconut and plantain.
Another cultural and culinary hotspot is Quibdó, the capital of the Chocó department and the heartland of AfroColombian traditions. Nestled between two mountain ranges on the banks of the Atrato River, it is famed for its raucous celebrations honoring Saint Francis.
To the west of Cali beyond the rugged mountains of the Farallones National Park, the port of Buenaventura is the departure point for boats to destinations throughout the Pacific, including the short hop to wild Uramba Bahía Málaga National Park and the beaches at Playa Dorada, Juanchaco and Ladrilleros. It’s also home to inviting crystal clear mountain streams like that at San Cipriano.
Even more spectacular nature is on offer at Nuquí in the Chocó. This tiny town is the jumping off point for the heliconia-lined beaches of Guachalito and Arusí and the enchanting Utría National Park which is set around a mountain backed inlet where whales come so close it’s possible to watch them frolicking while sipping a cup of coffee in the morning.
Not to be outdone, the other main gateway to the beaches of the Chocó, Bahía Solano also offers fine whale watching from its deserted stretches of sand backed by lofty jungle-clad mountains while the beaches around El Valle are the best place to observe nesting leatherback turtles. In fact the entire Chocó is a hotbed of biodiversity, this department alone is home to more than 830 distinct species of bird including ten endemic varieties representing nearly 50% of Colombia’s total birdlife.
And the world class nature in the region can be found below the surface too with exceptional diving opportunities, especially at the rocky outcrop of Isla Malpelo, a world heritage site around which masses of hammerhead sharks congregate in a truly remarkable subaquatic show.
While the national park at the former prison island of Isla Gorgona offers the best of both worlds - with trails through lush jungle to observe fascinating flora and fauna and fine snorkeling and diving just offshore.
Gorgona is accessed via a boat ride from the traditional seaside town of Guapi which is the home of one of the region’s most endearing sound. With origins running all the way back to the traditional instruments of West Africa, the marimba de chonta is hand crafted in the town from native palm trees specially selected in the surrounding forest.
The forests that surround Guapi stretch all the way to the south to the bustling city of Tumaco right by the border with Ecuador. With a privileged location on a picturesque island linked to the mainland by a bridge, Tumaco boasts popular beaches with dramatic rocky outcrops and excellent restaurants together with a vibrant music scene.
While Tumaco is one of the few places in the region where it’s possible to drive right up to the water’s edge, the majority of the Colombian Pacific destinations are best accessed by air. Flights to most key locations in the north depart from the Olaya Herrera airport in Medellín in the Western Colombian Andes while services to Guapi and Tumaco can be taken in Cali.
